You can plant apples from seed in the short term, but it’s more difficult than you may expect. However, it is possible to successfully establish a new tree from the seeds in your supermarket apple. An apple tree can be grown using seeds from the fruit you purchased at your local grocery store. It isn’t as simple as sprinkling them throughout your yard as you may think.

If you’re willing to put in the time and effort, however, you can grow your own apple tree. Buying seeds or a tiny tree for a certain variety of apples is a good way to get started if you want to grow a particular variety of apples. By reading this guide, you will be able to know, Can You Grow Apples from Seeds.

Can You Grow Apples from Seeds | Beginners Guide

How to grow apples from seeds?

There are several steps to follow when you are growing apples in your garden from seeds.

1. Choose a right apple variety

There are many apple varieties that can be grown in your garden. Each apple plant has unique characteristics. You can select the right variety to grow according to taste as your preference. And it is good to discuss with gardeners who grow apples from seeds.

To grow apples without using pesticides, consider disease-resistant trees such as “Williams Pride,” “Liberty,” “Jonafree,” and “Macfree,” among others. Moreover, it’s a lot easier to keep up.

2. Prepare the apple seeds for planting

As you eat the fruit slices, keep an eye out for seeds to collect. Cut the apple into wedges using a knife, being careful not to cut into the core.

How to germinate apple seeds?

To break dormancy, apple seeds require cold stratification. Before planting, the seeds must be maintained in wet refrigeration for at least 3 to 6 weeks. Apple seeds can be stored in an apple seed moistened paper towel in a plastic bag, with only a small opening for air exchange. Check the towel every week or so to make sure it’s damp before storing it in the back of the refrigerator.

Some seeds may have sprouted by the conclusion of the six-week period. Apple seeds have a poor germination rate, therefore this is a good thing. There is a lot of variation.

It’s best to acquire locally grown apples near the end of the season when they’ve already been stored in a refrigerated state for several weeks or months.

While the seeds can be coldly stratified with damp paper towels, they will not grow if there are not enough cold hours in the stratification. It’s possible that some of the seeds in long-stored local apples may already be germinating when you open them.

3. Choose a suitable spot

In order for apple trees to produce to their greatest potential, they need at least six hours of direct summer sunlight each day.

However, the soil should be able to hold some moisture for apple trees. Soils with a light to medium texture are ideal. The root rot disease affects fruit trees when they are planted in soil that is too heavy with clay.

Plant fruit in a location with sufficient air circulation so leaves dry rapidly after a rainstorm or irrigation (otherwise the tree risks fungal leaf diseases).

In order to avoid a “frost pocket” where cold air settles in low-lying places, be sure the tree will not be placed there. For best airflow, select an elevated location with a slip that allows cold air to travel away from the treetops.

Plantes should not be planted close to other trees. The ideal soil pH ranges from 6.0 to 6.5, however a pH range of 5.5 to 7.0 is permitted.

4. Prepare rich soil

The health and growth of your apple tree will be considerably enhanced if you prepare the soil before planting. It is a good idea to get your soil tested prior to planting, and even annually after planting, to discover whether it is lacking in any vital minerals and nutrients.

Compost, coir, sand, manure, and peat moss are common soil amendments for apple trees. Your garden can provide you with excellent organic materials such as grass clippings and shredded leaves. Not only will the grass and leaves break down to offer soil nutrients organically, but they will help loosen the soil as well.

Adding organic resources like compost will improve the composition of practically every soil type. To retain water and nutrients, organic matter binds sandy soil particles together. Aside from dissolving soil particles, they help water seep in and roots expand out.

If it’s after the final spring frost and the soil is workable, they can be directly seeded outside. Because germination rates are poor and squirrels, mice, and voles can prey on them early on, it is good to sprout them in pots.

If you are going to plant apple seeds in a container, make a container for the seedlings, which is perfect to grow. Fill the container with a potting soil mix, being careful to leave plenty of drainage holes in the container. There is no need to add fertilizer if the soil drains well but not quickly.

5. Sow apple seeds

In the fifth step, sow apple seeds.

In a small pot filled with well-watered, high-quality potting compost, remove the seeds from the refrigerator and plant them 1 1/2cm deep when the recommended time has elapsed. Until the seeds germinate, place them in a cold frame, a shaded south-facing area. It’s important to keep them moist and avoid over-watering to avoid dislodging the seed.

You can re-pot them when they are around 5cm tall and have a set of mature leaves. If you want to encourage the growth of new feeder roots, you can now prune the roots. Clean garden snips are used to remove the soil from the roots and cut them down by one-third of their original length.

6. Transplant the seedlings

It’s best to wait until nighttime temperatures routinely exceed 50 degrees in the spring before planting them.

After the seeds have sprouted and produced three to four genuine leaves, they will need to be transplanted in two to three weeks. To allow for greater growth, the seedlings should be moved to a larger container.

Clear about 1m around the area where you intend to plant. This will give the tree a better opportunity of establishing itself rather than compete with grass and weeds.

The tallest and healthiest seedling in the container is the greatest choice to start with. Gently remove a seedling by poking holes in the soil around it.

You can also plant the seedlings in a new planter. Dig fresh planter holes deep enough to accommodate the root systems of your seeds. Cover the seedling with the surface of the soil after it has been gently dropped. Set the seedlings by gently firming the soil around them and then thoroughly watering them in.

The seedlings will reach a height of two inches in about two weeks. As soon as the apple seedlings have reached their full size and are no longer mistaken for weeds in the open garden, they are ready for transplant.

When the apple seedlings are planted in the ground, they will begin the process of becoming full-sized trees. Because they are not grafted on a dwarfing rootstock, seedling apples will grow healthy and strong, but they will also be enormous. Full-sized apple trees should be planted at least 20 feet apart, even if they are pruned to a reduced size.

Consider the fact that most apple types can only be grown in the fall and winter. Ideally, seeds should be sown in the fall in order to establish themselves before the winter. Apple seedlings can also be transplanted outside in late winter or early spring.

How to care for apples that grow from seeds?

Here are essential caring tips for your apple plants that grow from seeds. So, be sure to follow them because it will ensure that the apple trees are grown successfully and get a good harvest.

1. Providing support for young apple trees

In order for apple trees to support significant apple harvests, they need to be trained in the early stages. The dwarf plants must be supported by a trellis or a post, and they must be trained to a central leader. A modified leader should also be used for standard (and semi-dwarf) trees.

Before using the stakes two feet into the ground, make sure they are roughly the same height as the tree they are supporting. Hammer them into the surrounding dirt, not into the rootball.

Strong rope or other non-abrasive, decomposable material should be used to tie the tree to the wall. Slack in the string should be sufficient to permit tree movement in wind and breezes. Once the tree’s roots have taken hold, you can discard everything in its path.

2. Watering

Ensure that the root system of young trees, especially those on semi-dwarfing or dwarfing rootstocks, is properly developed by watering them frequently.

Unless it rains, water your new tree once a week. The tree should be watered every two or three weeks after it is established. Overwatering can be led to root rot. So, be careful to water your plants.

3. Mulching

Roots are kept cool, water is retained, run-off is prevented, and organic matter in the soil is increased. Weeds are also kept under control with the help of this method. Wood mulch can be applied to your apple trees in a circle 1 meter in diameter around the base of newly planted trees.

Re-apply mulch every few months, but keep it away from the tree’s trunk to avoid decay. To keep rats from nesting in the tree and gnawing on its bark, this method also works.

3. Fertilizing

Remove the Tree Mat in the Spring and dig out some well-rotted manure from approximately six inches away from the tree. Replace the Tree Mat after you’ve drenched it.

4. Removing weeds

Weeds and grass should be kept away from it. It is not only the soil nutrients that weeds fight with your crops for, but also the sunlight and water. When weeds outgrow the apples in your garden, they block off the sunlight they need to thrive.

5. Pruning apple trees

Can You Grow Apples from Seeds | Beginners Guide

Pruning, aside from removing damaged, dead, or misplaced branches, slows the general growth of a young tree and may postpone fruiting. Directing growth without significant trimming is possible using a variety of methods.

Before they become branches, remove misplaced buds. Slow the growth of a stem by bending it virtually horizontally for a few weeks. Staple to stakes or lower branches using string.

Once your apple tree has matured and begun yielding fruit, you need to do yearly pruning to keep it in shape and size. Pruning helps prevent illness by allowing more light and air to pass through the plant. It may be necessary to use a ladder to prune large trees.

Prune your mature tree during the winter months when it’s dormant. Take care not to leave any stems that are too robust or upright (most common high up in the tree).

Get rid of the branches’ weaker twigs, which are often found hanging from them. Remove droopy stems from the lower branches of the tree. Reduce the length of an old fruiting spur so that a new, younger one can take its place.

6. Removing smallest and damaged fruits

Apples are commonly grown without any thinning except for the yearly spring drop.

After the natural fruit drop (about four or six weeks after bloom), it’s a good idea to reduce the clusters to one fruit per cluster, or about six to eight inches apart.

A heavy crop can break limbs, but this approach ensures a better-tasting, larger fruit yield since it evens out production. Remove the smallest or damaged fruits as soon as possible, leaving about four inches between the remaining fruits.

7. Controlling pests and diseases

There will be a lot of attention paid to pest control as part of our care. To avoid injuring the bees and interfering with pollination, timing is crucial.

In the event that pesticides are employed, they are sprayed at a predetermined time in the development of flowers and fruits, rather than at random. If you know what pests are likely to be an issue in your area, you’ll be able to apply the correct measures at the appropriate time.

It is possible to grow your apple trees without the use of pesticides, but apple trees are one of the most pest-prone fruits. Even if it takes a lot of time and effort, you can wrap each apple in paper bags. Organic insecticides are another option.

How to prevent pests and diseases?

Apple maggots, plum curculios, green fruit worms, and codling moths are just some of the insects and diseases that attack apples. If you don’t want to use any pesticides in your garden, you’ll require an acceptable annual spray treatment.

If you don’t want to use pesticides, you may choose to use disease-resistant types like ‘Prima, Priscilla, Liberty, and Freedom’. When it comes to apple scab, cedar-apple rust, and other common diseases that necessitate spraying every spring and summer, these types don’t need to be sprayed at all. Find approved pest control programs in your region by contacting your local extension department.

You can also use an anti-insect oil, which can be purchased at garden centers. The best time to apply this product is in early spring when your apple trees are still in their fruiting cluster stage, but before the buds begin to turn pink.

If you haven’t used a lot of pesticides, natural parasite and predator populations can be employed to control other pests like scales, mites, and aphids.

Simply hang one or two red and sticky “Tangle-Trap” balls from a limb in June and throughout the summer to catch the apple maggot. As needed, reapply the sticky goo to the surface.

Wire mesh cylinders surrounding the base of the tree dissuade rodents and rabbits, and repel deer with repellents, fencing, or deer-resistant flora.

Make a solution of 1 cup vinegar, 1 cup sugar, and 1 quart of water to keep insects away from apple plants. In a wide-mouthed plastic jug, pour this mixture. It is best to leave the jug out in your apple tree to dry out.

Using rakes, mulch, or a lawnmower to crush up apple leaves at the end of the season can help prevent disease.

When and how to harvest apples?

Wait patiently for the crops to ripen. Harvest your apples when they’re at their best after all that hard work and tender loving care.

When the apple’s background color is no longer green, it’s time to harvest it. When the fruit is held in the palm of your hand and given a gentle twist around, then up, the stem should easily separate from the branch (do not yank on the apple).

From August to October, there is a wide range of apple kinds that can be harvested.

Where to store apples?

Late- or early-season apples can be stored. Varieties harvested in the early part of the season do not store well and should be used as soon as possible. In a root cellar, mid-season cultivars can last for a few weeks, while late-season kinds can last for up to five months. There must be no blemishes or bruises on apples that are to be stored, as these could serve as an entry point for rot.

Wrap individual apples in newspaper or tissue paper to keep them fresh for longer periods of time. Using trays that enable air to flow, place the apples that have been wrapped. Unwrapped fruits can be stored, but they should not be in contact with one another. Keep the different varieties separate and consume the ones that won’t last as long first, so that you don’t waste food.

A cool, dark, and well-ventilated space are the ideal location for a store. Keep an eye out for soft, discolored, or decaying apples in your apple storage.

It’s best to use an overripe apple for cooking.

Which problems can arise when growing apples from seeds?

Even if the apples are ripe, there is a considerable possibility they will not be edible.

A lot of apple trees are pollinated by crabapples, which are usually little and inedible or just not very pleasant. Getting a perfectly tasty apple is a rare occurrence.

If you have a small apple tree, you may be able to grow full-sized trees from its seeds.

When grafting a variety onto a dwarfing rootstock, several of these dwarf trees are generated. Dwarf variety seeds may be able to develop a full-sized tree, despite the presence of full-size genes in the variety.

It also takes a while for apple trees grown from seed to bear fruit as 7 to 10 years.

Top 5 best apple varieties to grow in your garden

There are a lot of apple varieties in the world. Select the best one among them and grow in your garden. Here are the top 5 best apple varieties to grow.

1. ‘Chivers Delight‘ Apple

It’s a great English apple that was formerly commercially farmed, albeit on a modest basis. Cox’s Orange Pippin is a relative of Chivers Delight, with a sweeter flavor and a sourer aftertaste. Crispy and dense, the flesh is a pleasure to eat.

If the sun is on it, the fruit goes red, but it will not color up on the gloomy side. This does not impair the flavor but makes them harder to sell.

2. ‘Howgate wonder‘ Apple

It is a huge, late-season, heavy-producing, mild-flavored cooking apple. In pollination group 3, it is self-fertile and vigorous. There is an oily feel to the skin of the yellow-green fruit.

In addition to being a superb cook early in the season, this apple is also a good presser and may be enjoyed as an apple dessert from the shop or tree, since the acidity begins to fade off as it matures. It’s one of the few types whose fruit may be left on the tree until at least the end of October when harvesting can begin.

3. ‘Spartan’ Apple

Sweet, crisp, and juicy, Spartan apples are a favorite of many. They are derived from the McIntosh apple, which originated in Canada. In contrast to the McIntosh varieties, the fruits on these trees are a deep plum red and slightly smaller. As long as they’re kept cool, these apples are excellent for both eating and juicing.

The Spartan apple tree matures to a small size with a dense cluster of flowers. However, due to the overabundance of flowers, pruning is an important factor in addition to the fruit’s deep red hue. If the blossoms aren’t trimmed back, the fruit will be smaller, and the tree will run out of nutrients.

4. ‘Pitmaston Pine Apple’

It has a distinct pineapple-like flavor that sets it apart from the rest. Despite the fact that apples can be classified as either very acidic or very sweet, there are numerous types that exhibit additional flavor overtones, and Pitmaston Pineapple is the best example of this tiny group.

5. ‘Blenheim Orange’ Apple

An orange or yellow, somewhat russeted, dull red-striped Blenheim Orange is a heritage apple. There is a large, round, flat, and regular-shaped fruit on the tree. Its golden flesh is crisp, sweet, juicy, and aromatic, with a flavor that’s reminiscent of apricots. Good cook. Large, spreading tree with a flat top.

Watch how to germinate apple seeds at your home | Video

Top 5 FAQs & answers related to can you grow apples from seeds

How long do apple trees take to grow from seed?

The process of growing an apple tree from seed might take anywhere from 7 to 10 years, depending on the variety.
During the growing season, apple trees require at least 8 hours of sunlight each day. Crabapples can serve as one of the two kinds needed for successful pollination. 2 to 3 years after planting, dwarf apple trees will begin producing fruit. Depending on the tree’s size, it could take as long as 8 years to bear fruit.

Should apple seeds be dried before planting?

Prior to stratification, the seeds must be allowed to dry out completely. If you don’t follow this step, your apple seeds will probably fail to germinate. You must first allow the apple seeds to dry out for three to four weeks if you want them to germinate.

How can apple seeds be sprouted indoors?

Using damp paper towels or tissue, stack the seeds in an airtight container. If you want to grow apples, you’ll need to keep the seeds in the refrigerator for at least two to three weeks, or perhaps a month or more, in order for them to sprout.

Do apple trees self-pollinate?

Self-pollinating apple trees are a rare breed indeed. This means that if you don’t have any other apple trees nearby, you’ll need to plant at least two trees of different varieties in your backyard in order to reap the fruits.

Which companion plants can grow with apple trees?

Companion plants are essential to the health of the plants, since they discourage pests, attract beneficial insects and pollinators, and also aid in the plants’ growth.
There are a variety of plants that are good companions for apple trees. Cut down and mulch the following plants to repel pests and enhance the soil around your apple tree such as Nasturtium, Dill, Mint, Artemisia, Yarrow, Chamomile, Coriander, Fennel, Basil, and Lemongrass, etc.


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